It seems that there are two, or perhaps three, schools of thought on pitch preparation. There are those who follow a relatively complicated procedure and those who undertake a comparatively simple procedure. It seems that those who follow a complicated system may have poor quality clay to manage compared with those who have good quality bulli and who seem to produce good pitches with relative ease. The third group, who may be the elite, have good material and still follow a complicated system. They seem to be in the minority.
The first group do not find it necessary to use hessian to initiate rolling but use grass cuttings. It may be a coincidence that their pitches also suffer from layering, with habitual cracking, and find that cracks do not come together on watering so that permanent cracks develop. Also, this group usually commences rolling with a light roller to form a crust upon which to rely to give some pace and bounce.
The second group use hessian, commence rolling with a relatively heavy roller, roll for less time, and produce better pace and bounce.
The following provide an indication of the procedures which have been proposed for pitch preparation. We do not necessarily agree with all the procedures recommended but we provide these examples to provoke thought and to stimulate discussion between groundsmen.
Pitch No. 1 (the Adelaide oval - the way to produce a white, glassy wicket)
DAY 1
(i) Double-cut to 10 mm
(ii) Slowly and uniformly soak the pitch, preferably during the evening
DAY 2
(i) If grass cuttings are to be used (to stop the bulli from sticking to the roller; to help retain moisture and promote even drying; and to camouflage bare areas), these should now be spread on the bald patches. Remember that grass cuttings can cause layering and that hessian is generally preferred anyway to prevent the bulli from sticking to the roller.
(ii) Start rolling with a light roller (25 to 50 kg). Cross roll 2 to 3 times, never pushing a wave of water ahead of the roller.
(iii) As the pitch dries (perhaps one half to an hour later), increase the weight of the roller - cross roll 2 to 3 times with a 100 kg roller. Repeat twice 2 and 4 hours later with a 400 kg roller, by which time the grass should have been pushed into the turf. A 1.5 to 2 ton roller should then be used, rolling up and down in low gear. If this roller does not crease the soil and push the grass even further into the turf, stop and rewater by hand before proceeding. On a normal day two more rollings can be given, the last in top gear.
DAY 3
(i) Lower the cutting height to 6 mm. Double cut.
(ii) If creases are still visible, use the heavy roller. Roll 3 more times for 20 to 30 minutes.
(iii) Cut again to 6 mm and water.
FINAL WEEK
Continue cutting and rolling as before.
DAY OF MATCH
Double cut to 4 mm and roll with a heavy roller for 20 to 30 minutes.
COMPLETION OF MATCH
Clean off all grass cuttings and begin soaking slowly as soon as possible.
Pitch No. 2. (a general Australian recommendation - the result is a white wicket)
(i) Mow to 10 mm. The mowing height should be reduced slowly as preparation proceeds.
(ii) Irrigate the top few cm almost to saturation.
(iii) As soon as the surface is sufficiently dry, roll with a 250 kg roller. This binds the soil and presses the grass into the soil surface.
(iv) Sprinkle clippings on the surface (generally not recommended).
(v) Use a heavy roller (1 ton or so). This will squeeze the mud over the grass, killing it. Further rolling compacts the mud/grass mixture into what is called a white wicket. At rolling, the surface should be sufficiently dry so that it will not flow, but the roller must still be able to squeeze water from the deeper layers into the drier surface. The moisture content is about right when the thumb, pressed into the surface, will leave a small indentation.
(vi) A roller (1.5 to 2 ton) is now used in short bursts, each burst continuing until moisture is drawn to the surface. A heavy roller should not be over-used when the pitch is too dry. It will promote surface crumbling and horizontal shearing.
(vii) The final roll is designed to give a glazed surface. A light roller is used after water has been sprinkled onto the surface so that it becomes slightly pugged. More clippings may then be applied to cover bare patches.
Pitch No. 3 - a two-day club game using a single 1 500 kg roller
Monday
- Sweep off loose material and fill worn areas such as creases with fine bulli using a spike to prick out bonding holes to allow the new Bulli to key in.
- Irrigate the whole table thoroughly.
Tuesday
- Rest the table and attend to outfield. Mow both ways in the afternoon or the following morning.
Wednesday
- Apply water with a fine even spray.
- Using the thumb test, place hessian and undertake the first roll when the water only just shows under the thumb and smudges nicely when the thumb is turned or moved on the surface.
- Roll a few times and stop when the hessian has picked up surface water.
- Remove hessian by pulling back. It should not pick up Bulli.
- Commence rolling when it is judged that the consistency of the Bulli is ready to take the weight of the roller. Use a small knife blade inserted to judge this condition. As the bulli dries it 'clings' more to the blade, and it is this degree of clinging that is used to judge when rolling should begin. Obviously this technique relies solely on the individual developing the right sense of 'feel', but it is worth the effort.
- Only if necessary apply grass cuttings to bald patches (again, not recommended).
- Stop rolling when the drum dries out.
- After a period of thirty minutes roll again for approximately 20 minutes.
- Repeat this pattern, extending the delay periods to cater for the prevailing weather conditions.
- Cover.
Thursday
- Remove covers and roll in the sweated moisture until the drum is dry.
- Roll for two spells of 20 minutes every 30 minutes.
- Cover.
Friday
- Remove covers and roll in the sweated moisture as above.
- Limit rolling depending on climatic conditions.
- Mow if necessary.
Saturday & Sunday
- Roll in moisture.
- Mow if necessary.
- Mark.
- Sweep off loose material.
- Roll in moisture.
- Mark.
After Play
- Cover.
Each clay soil will ultimately require a separate preparation package for best results. It is essential that the clay material meets quality standards to afford the groundsman a reasonable opportunity of producing a good pitch.
Thereafter the process requires attention to detail without taking short cuts. The basics of a level surface, even grass cover, even application of water and the correct use of the roller can produce very satisfying results.
The process of preparing a cricket pitch involves Natural Science. The combination of nature and science needs to be understood and fully exploited to achieve the best results. Experience gained from a process which has a scientific base as the foundation will benefit any progress in all endeavors relating to these activities.
Hints which may assist in choosing the right techniques
- A suitable clay soil should have a low infiltration rate, and hence the profile will take time to wet. Apply water in the early evening and at a slow rate.
- Grass serves to pump water from the profile. Therefore only cut low as late as possible. (Double cut)
- Slow drying allows thorough compaction, so promote this whenever possible.
- Devise tests to judge when to commence rolling e.g. the thumb test.
- Is rewatering advisable? Does its need indicate poor quality bulli? Examine this in your own situation.
- Is moisture from covers a good or bad thing? Experiment with different procedures and note the effects.
- Should rolling stop when the roller dries off? Examine in your situation.
- Do multiple size rollers give better results? Don't be afraid to try various combinations, especially in nets and outer pitches.
- What should the pattern of heavy rolling be dictated by? Satisfy yourself of this.
- Slow rolling as opposed to fast rolling. Slow when damp, and faster when drier. Slow in the morning and fast in the afternoon? Do these 'rules' apply to your pitches?
- Is it necessary to slow the drying process by covering with shade-cloth or hessian in your situation?
- Should the winner of the toss have an advantage? If you think so, then prepare the pitch accordingly.
- Groundsmen should aim for perfection - no matter who uses his pitch.
"A groundsman needs to do what he has to do and must understand what needs to be done. He must have the knowledge and facts to understand what his strengths and weaknesses are. Otherwise he will flounder and be misled. He will probably be inflexible and uncertain, lacking in real confidence."
- Establish clear objectives.
- Work to checklists.
- Investigate pace and bounce. They are related.
- Know your Bulli. Investigate its strengths and weaknesses.
- Avoid deductions based on doubtful arguments.
- Work on reasons and avoid excuses.
- Do your homework.
- Knowledge and advice is only a telephone call away.
Note:
A survey undertaken in the USA involving Agronomists serving some 1700 golf courses gave the number one problem as "Communication" with both The Management committees and players. This indicated that greenkeepers needed to motivate and communicate the facts to these people. This requires a higher level of professionalism.
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